Beara Way : Eyeries - Lauragh
Day 9 : Wednesday, 15th August.
The walk from Eyeries to Lauragh is a distance of about 20kms and a maximum ascent of 200 meters. From Eyeries we are driven to the village of Ardgroom, to start our walk at the Holly Bar (no, no we are not going for a drink there, we just start our walk outside the bar). This Holly Bar has a small, very old holly growing in its front window.
Walking out of Ardgroom we decide to take the opportunity to visit Ardgroom Outward Stone Circle, which is one of the most famous stone circles is this region. Quite impressive, these boulders. Returning to our track, we continue the Beara Way which leads us over a small bridge (Glashananinnaun Bridge) and walk from Ireland’s largest county, county Cork, into the County of Kerry.
After a couple of kms the track leads us in to a field. It is difficult to follow an obvious track and we have to focus on finding the markers. It turns out to be a rough track; the Beara Way climbs away from the road and magnificent views open up behind us over Ardgroom Harbour with its rocky islands. On the far side of the Kenmare River, Rossdohan Island and Sherky Island guard the estuary of the Sneem River. The track rises to pass between Drung Hill and Keecragh mountain. Continuing along the track down the hill we can see Kilmakilloge Harbour to our left with the Knockatee Mountains rising behind. Kilmakilloge Harbour is a huge mussel and salmon farming area. The tracks starts climbing gradually again and sometimes it is really difficult the find the markers, but we manage. Passing the crest of the hill the track leads us downwards again along a beautiful old wall, which was possibly built during the famine time as relief labour for the local tenant farms and probably protecting a large estate. The track leads us into a plantation of trees where we end up in a real muddy and slippery track and finally reach the main road. This road will lead us to into the hamlet of Lauragh, at the foot of the famous Healy Pass.
We stay overnight at B&B Mountain View on the Healy Pass Road, where Sheila O’Sullivan takes good care of us. But before we walk on to our guesthouse we spend some time at the Sheibin Pub. It’s a real lovely pub and while looking at the interior it really looks like time has come to a stop here a long, long time ago.
Before we started the Beara Way, we have been here already by car after visiting the Healy Pass. This pass begun in the 19th century as a military road and was completed in 1930s as a spectacular tourist route across the peninsula, reaching its highest point at the Healy Pass at 320 meters.
